The volcanic valley of the Alcantara

By Sicily Holidays in : East Sicily, Itineraries // Dec 3 2010

The Alcantara river (from the Arabic Al-Quantarah which means bridge) flows in a valley rich in history and natural beauty and is one of the most important rivers in Sicily. It starts from Monti Nebrodi at a height of 1250m above sea level close to Floresta and runs for about 50km before flowing into the Ionian Sea near Capo Schisò (ancient Naxos). It is positioned between the far part of Monti Peloritani and the northern side of Etna and marks the natural border of Taormina and the boundaries of the two provinces of Messina and Catania. The peculiarity of the valley’s area is the presence of two different geological characteristics, that of the volcano and that of the Appennine that are highlighted in its two raised banks.

The Alcantara valley touches many inland towns and the northern strip of Etna. It has been a protected area since June 1991 and became a river park in 2001 including land from both the provinces of Messina and Catania with the aim of protecting and promoting the natural existing system. Our itinerary leaves from Naxos following the 185 road in the direction of Francavilla and enters the interior of the valley passing Trappitello, a hamlet of Taormina heavily involved in citrus fruit cultivation and the small village of Gaggi, rural suburb of Arab origin known for its own olives, lemons, grain and wine grapes.

Continuing on the right we catch sight of the small village of Motta Camastra situated on a rocky sandstone ridge (450m above sea level) which dominates and towers over the valley. It is one of the most characteristic medieval villages in the area with its narrow alleyways and houses placed one on top of the other. In the first week of October is the celebration of the ‘Festival of Nuts’. The highlights of this celebration are Friday, Saturday and Sunday night. Along the small country streets people offer many different kinds of nut products of which Motta Camastra is the best producer in the area. In the region of the town of Motta Camastra in the Larderia – Sciara area you can find the famous and evocative ‘”Gole dell’Alcantara“, real canyons of basalt lava formed in prehistoric times after the devastating lava flow from Vulcanetto di Mojo.
Formed from the continual erosion of the Alcantara river they offers visitors the chance to see rare examples of basalt columnars in pentagonal and hexagonal sections.Following the river and entering the interior of the gorge is a unique experience thanks to these spectacular geological phenomenon which are literally ‘moulded’ from nature!

Next we arrive at Francavilla di Sicilia, a small town positioned at the convergence point of three rivers, l’Alcantara, il San Paolo and lo Zavianni. It is exactly the wealth of water and fertility of the land around it that has created the interest in this area since ancient times. Here the Nassi people founded a city in the 6th Century a.c which was important for the link with the Tyrrhenian Coast and for the supply of products such as oil, wine, carob, fruit and many others. Many years ago, the discovery of a deposit dating back to 6th Century a.c produced about 2000 exhibits including statues, vases and religious offerings relating to the worship of Demetra and Kore the godhead guardians of fertility of the land and weddings.
Also of interest is a visit to the small antiquarium where many exhibits were discovered during the campaign of archeological digs. Near to the antiquarium in Via Liguria we can admire the 18^th Century Palazzo Cagnone dominated from above by the giant Castello Medievale, which was built on the summit of the mountain and towers above the small town. The view is very picturesque from the Convento dei Cappuccini (16^th Century), which is positioned on a small hill gently lapped by the Zavianni torrent and the S. Paolo river. The Convento was built thanks to Viscount Balsamo and the generosity of the people. Inside the church, the alter is adorned with wooden inlays probably made by its own monks. In the convent you can visit the small Museo etno-antropologico where handmade items and tools of local peasants are displayed.

Moving on we cross the Castiglione bridge that leads us into the province of Catania to arrive at the small city of Castiglione. From the bridge we can admire the wonderful Alcantara river which flows like a silver ribbon between black lava rocks. Here the landscape changes from the cultivation of citrus trees to the growth of thick hazel groves of which Castiglione is a prestigious producer. The ancient Castrum Leonis, with a height of 621 m above sea level has had an important role in the history of eastern Sicily since antiquity. Today, the medieval village is one of the most visited and admired, for its castle, monumental churches, noble houses, alleyways and its panorama dominated by the snow-capped mass of Etna.

There is no definite information available as to the origin of the castle but it would appear that the oldest part was built during the Swabian-Norman period. It was linked to the stronghold of Castelluccio and to an outpost identifiable with the church of San Pietro and was connected by underground passages which it is said arrived at Cannizzo, building a real architectural and defensive complex. Of interest is la chiesa dei SS. Apostoli Pietro e Paolo built in the Swabian- Norman period along with le chiese di S. Marco and San Nicola. The church of Santa Domenica, also known as Cuba, is astonishingly beautiful and rich in history. It is found outside the city in a pleasant place surrounded by hazel groves and is very close to the Alcantara river where its icy water flows nearby. It is a rare example of a church constructed in the first Norman age, straight after the expulsion of the Arabs from Sicily which maintained the structure of its central part in a cubic form enriched with exterior elements like the two lateral aisles and the mullioned windows.
Castiglione is also famous for Solicchiata wine, for citrus fruit, oil and craftwork. Needlepoint, in its time, was the pride and passion of every Castiglione woman from whose wonderous hands came amazing embroidery. Also well known are the variety of sweets made from nuts which stimulate both the sight and the palette!

From Castiglione to Randazzo the journey is short. Positioned on the north western slope of Etna 765m above sea level the city has ancient origins dating back to the 6th Century a.c. In the medieval age the city was moved and reconstructed in its current position where it was enriched with its best monuments. The three main churches are positioned in three different areas: Santa Maria in the Latin quarter, San Nicola in the Greek quarter and San Martino in the Lombard quarter, a testimony to the three cultural bonds which were present in the city in ancient times.
The city had its most splendid period under the Aragonesi kings which made the city a stronghold for Sicily’s defense against the Angevins through the construction of walls and defensive towers. The city was embellished with monuments, churches and pieces of art and was elected a Royal City and seat of the court.

To visit:

La chiesa di Santa Maria built in the 14^th Century has both a beautiful external ashlar curtain wall made from basalt tiles and a beautiful steeple which is unique for its colours where you can distinguish the different columns one from the other. Inside the church, the Basilica is enriched by many pieces of art.
La chiesa di San Nicola built in the 13th Century and reconstructed in 1589 is the biggest church in Randazzo. The façade was designed by Andrea Calamech architect of the Senate of Messina (16th Century)
La chiesa di San Martino has a beautiful belfry from the 11^th – 13th Century with various repairs. The façade was remade in the 15th Century and reconstructed in the 17th Century. The church was subject to bombing in 1943. Inside the church there is a precious polyptych from the Antonello da Messina school.
Il Palazzo Reale Constructed under the last Norman king
Il Palazzo Clarentano
Il Castello
La famosa via degli Archi
La casa di via Orto
Il portale di via Fisauli

To admire the archiological finds discovered in Contrada Santa Anastasia it is interesting to visit Museo Vagliasindi which is situated inside the walls of Castle “Carcere”.

Also of interest is the Museo Civico di Scienze Naturali which hosts the ‘Ornitologica Priolo’, a collection of 2250 Italian and Exotic birds. This includes the now extinct Grifone dell’Etna and l’Avvoltoio dagli anelli which could be seen decades ago sailing in the skies above Etna.

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